Paddling around Islay

By on 27/10/2022

Sea kayaking during the first week in May (2022) with good friends. We took five days to circumnavigate Islay, one of many islands that make up the Inner Hebrides As the southernmost of this chain, the island, like most of the others has a coastline that is rugged, pitted with high cliffs, rocky shorelines and few safe landing options, scattered amongst havens of golden sand. Tides are strong and often effected by the open Atlantic swell to the west. Islands do offer plenty of options though if the weather turns foul. They always have a sheltered side and flexibilty to avoid the worst of the conditions. We chose to take vehicles over in case of bad weather shuttles but it’s a simple matter to trolley the boats on as a foot passenger.

Good planning, looking at the weather forecast, wind direction and tidal flow is crucial for safety and success. Adding all of these factors together at the time, we decided on a clockwise journey. Occasionally a late start, whilst at times we were ‘up with the Lark’ taking advantage of tidal direction. Fortunately we had reasonable weather and a succesful journey.

Carraig Fhada Lighthouse is the first lighthouse to look out for close to the start at Port Ellen. The ‘tidal gate’ around the Mull of Oa needs careful consideration. High cliffs guard it’s shoreline, where it would be hazardous to land. The American monument sits high atop the west end of the Mull with sobering memories of a maritime war tragedy, 1918. On another visit the tide ebbing out of Loch Indaal had been almost impossible to beat, so be careful of timing your arrival to coincide with a N.W tidal stream. A good app for tidal calculations is Absolute Tides Our first day was a long one (20 miles) with thankfully limited wind. We camped on Orsay close to the Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse opposite Portnahaven.

Frenchman’s Rocks has narrow channels surrounding them which had thwarted a previous visit for me and a friend when an Atlantic gale arrived. Reflected waves from the rocky shoreline and a strong tidal stream pushing against the gale were ingrediants for us to avoid on that day. This time the weather was much more benign and allowed us to pass easily and turn towards the N.W. facing coast. Just before Frenchman’s Rock watch out for the first wave energy generator to be built anywhere in the world. It has now been de-commissioned. Our next overnight stop was near Sanaigmore (18 miles). Here we met a farmer feeding Choughs. Interestingly he was not worried too much if Eagles bothered his sheep. ..” What would you prefer a Sheep or an Eagle”?…The coastline on this second day has limited spots for landing and is open to the west and Atlantic swells. There are long stretches of rocky headlands, making landing a big problem.

A target for the third day was Ruvall Lighthouse or nearby. On our way we passed Nave Island which had been a possible overnight stop but the weather was not looking great and we pushed on, after negotiating a number of off-lying skerries, south-west of the island. We found a sheltered north-facing campsite a mile or so west of the lighthouse.

Four days and an early start led us to the relative shelter of the Sound of Islay. The ebb tide was favourable but a niggling headwind was not and we were happy to arrive at Port Askaig for a late breakfast at the hotel. The sound at this point is only half a mile wide and the south-going tidal flow sent us on our way towards McArthur’s Head Lighthouse We camped at Aros Bay.

The final day arrived with good weather and countless skerries to navigate, close inshore towards Port Ellen. Off the starboard beam were three of the nine Islay distilleries advertising Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroiag. Just one of many good reasons to visit.

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