Cycling in Scotland. Farthest south to farthest north on the Scottish mainland. Over two weeks and 557 miles, traversing an inspiring and varied landscape of physical, economic, social proportions, old and new. A brief glimpse of what I discovered. From my home in Fort William, a train to Glasgow and on to Stranraer, plus a taxi to the lighthouse on the Mull of Galloway. I had cycled this section from the lighthouse to Stranraer previously and needed a relaxing start. Good weather and a secluded camp near the beach of East Tarbert bay. The trip can be split into sections at various places, using the railway for return to a vehicle.
First day Garmin route map From the Mull of Galloway lighthouse on a clear day it’s possible to see Wales, Northern Ireland, the Isle of Man and England. Some locals also mention seeing heaven from the Mull of Galloway! The clarity is normally associated with a dry cold wind from a northern quadrant. This slice of rich agricultural land is one of two narrow slots that force the Irish Sea tidal currents to gain speed. The other, narrower and more northern tidal alleyway is south of the Mull of Kintyre. It’s even being considered for creating energy from tidal turbines.
An early start and breakfast presented itself at Ardwell Marine, mobile kitchen. Fortified by two bacon/egg rolls and mugs of tea, the first day was looking good and sunny.
From Ardwell, quiet country roads lead to a careful crossing of the busy A75. Onward for the rest of the day on quiet lanes, through more farmland. Don’t be fooled by the promise of shops and accommodation in New Luce. The pub was being fully refurbished, the Post Office shop shuts early and the local ‘postie’ knew nothing of a campsite marked on the O.S. map! The village is very pretty though, I carried on.
The hot weather had reduced any streams to a languid trickle. My water bottles were drying up and the land was full of sheep and cattle. Not happy with filling up ‘al fresco’ I knocked up a farmer for fresh water. After questioning why not drink from streams tainted with pure sheep’s piss he sent me packing and fully hydrated. He also recommended watching for the Beehive Bothy which is where I spent a peaceful night, away from the midges. This simple shelter is on the Southern Upland Way hiking trail
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 27 miles – Minor B class roads 8 miles – Major A class roads 1.5 miles – Gravel trails 6 miles
Day two Garmin route map into the wind farms. Love them or hate them, they supply gravel routes for cyclists. Careful map use is necessary to stay on track without following a dead end to the foot of these massive pillars of steel and whirling blades. None of the Killgalioch turbines had found their way onto my digital mapping but the original forest trails were clearly shown. Soon after leaving the bothy I passed the Laggangairn Stones which predate wind farms by thousands of years. Today was a good deal off-road gravel and minor back roads, plus NCR 7, with only a short distance on the A714. Loch Doon Caravan and Camping site was a welcoming place to spend the night. The manager allowed me to use the office to watch some Euro 2020 football!
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 15 miles – Major A class roads 3 miles – Gravel trails 22 miles
Day three Garmin route map Shorter, due to some rain in the afternoon. This section offers the first chance on the route taken for some restocking at Dalmellington From Loch Doon to this pretty village is very scenic but quickly changes on the tough ascent into the old coal workings. The last three hundred years saw the high land to the north of the village developed for deep coal mining and opencast pits. My journey traversed this high (375m) and desolate, industrial countryside of slagheaps, towards Cumnock. Evidence of restoration is clear but it will take time to return this place to acceptable nature. Forestery and wind farms are evident, but not all the heaps can offer strong foundations for turbines. Hillwalking is popular through this historical industrial landscape. A bike is better!
A lack of concentration at a wet crossroads, took me out onto the B7046 (all easily avoided). I had intended to go via the headwaters of the River Nith on gravel and quiet backroads to Cumnock (see map photo). Rushing to avoid incoming rain, took ‘my eye off the ball’. My debit card came in handy for a night in a comfortable bed.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 2 miles – Minor B class roads 7 miles – Gravel trails 12 miles
Day four Garmin route map A transition towards an urban city landscape and memories of Galloway and South Ayrshire A dismantled rail line heads north-east towards Muirkirk but has no detail of it as a cycle route. I had hoped to follow the River Ayr Way (RAW) from Sorn and onwards to Glenbuck. This mining village of only 1000 people produced 50 professional footballers and one of the best managers (Bill Shankly) ever to come out of Scotland. Any chance of exploring the RAW was scuppered due to a landslide. A short (5.5 miles) on the busy B743, followed by quiet backroads and a further 7 miles as far as Dungavel Immigration Removal Centre on the B743, Then quieter lanes towards East Kilbride.
Traversing East Kilbride to Glasgow is busy but well signed for NCR 756. Breasting the hill north of East Kilbride, alongside of the very busy A749 duel carriageway, the view towards Glasgow and the Clyde made a pleasant change. Beyond that the Campsie Fells and Highland Fault Line.
Even though you will not be very far from speeding vehicles, enjoy sliding down the bike trail from a high point in East Kilbride to cross the River Clyde at the Dalmarnock Smart Bridge. Now follow the good bike path into the city. A debit card at a Holiday Inn Express on Stockwell St served its purpose for the night. They had a locked cupboard to store my bike. Very friendly.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 19 miles – Minor B class roads 16 miles – Major A class roads 1 miles – NCR 756/75 8miles
Day five Garmin route map Glasgow bike trails are good. Well signed and generally well maintained, avoiding busy roads. From the Kelvin art gallery and museum the Kelvin walkway leads to Maryhill locks on the Forth/Clyde canal. After a coffee at the Whitehouse Cafe I headed east along the canal towards Kirkintilloch and the Thomas Muir heritage trail, shared with the Strathkelvin Railway path (north) This leads pleasantly to Lennoxtown, off road from Glasgow, so far.
All warmed up with easy cycling in the bag, now the fun (?) begins, with the hardest climb so far on the trip, all in the saddle! The Crow Road ascends relentlessly for approximately 260m. A recently fitted smaller chain ring helped lessen the effort, marginally! Top up the calories at the start of the climb. Only one rest stop at the halfway viewpoint and then headlong down towards Endrick Water and Fintry.
With the Campsie Fells and Fintry hills leaving astern the rest of the trip to the Lake of Menteith is pleasant countryside. A quick ‘flit’ along the busy A81 towards Aberfoyle and Cobleland campsite plus a meal and more Euro 2020 football at the Rob Roy Hotel
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 2 miles – Minor B class roads 17 miles – Major A class roads 4 miles – NCR 756/5/4 16 miles
Day six Garmin route map Familiar trails for a while, following An Turas Mor From Aberfoyle a number of off-road options to Loch Venachar can be explored, if the 220m road climb on the Duke’s Pass is not your ‘cup of tea’! For a change I chose to head back along the A81 to Portend, just before the Port of Menteith. The route now climbs north on a small paved road, leading to good farm and forest gravel tracks, over the ridge. Callander for an ice cream then The Broch Cafe cannot be passed without a lunch. Pushing on, using the superb cycle paths of NCR 7, high above Lochearnhead, following the old rail line of Glen Ogle. Great cycling, clocking up the miles until Killin for a pint, or was it two!? The picturesque village was ‘rammed’ with visitors, so onwards to Glen Lyon, via the beautifully quiet lane of Glen Lochay, an old Coffin Road. The descent towards Pubil at the head of Glen Lyon is badly rutted but with care produced a fast and exciting drop into the glen. A lucky phone call to Milton Eonan Cottage (on airbnb). The accommodation was fully booked but the owner kindly allowed me to camp in her garden and use the spare toilet. A great day all round and the possibility of picking up supplies at Bridge of Balgie Tearoom
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 20 miles – Gravel 7 miles – Major A class roads 4 miles – NCR 7 23 miles
Day seven Garmin route map This day starts steep on the Kirk Pass Early climbing soon leads to pushbike tactics. Each to their own, and hiking steeper trails is far less energy sapping, with not much loss in speed for me. I’ve been over this trail before and always meet other cyclists. The uphill struggles are rewarded by gentle trails through Rannoch Forest to the south shore of Loch Rannoch. Turn west and head for the Rannoch Station Tea Room for world class refreshment, ready for the next climb over to Corrour. Return along the road for a mile or so, to Loch Eigheach and the relentless, gravel climb of 300m starts, as part of the Road to the Isles It’s not too steep to start with but the later elevations are not on the best surface. Views towards the Blackwater Reservoir and Glencoe hills makes all the effort worthwhile. Finally, a fun descent towards Loch Ossian SYHA, with Ben Nevis on the skyline. The day is not finished though, as the Corrour Burger and a couple of pints at the Station House Restaurant await!! Camping.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 8 miles – Minor B class roads 7 miles – Gravel 16 miles
Day eight Garmin route map Loch Ossian glistened on a windless day, heading north towards Fort Augustus. Easy travel on gravel estate roads through remote landscapes. Follow the south shore of Loch Laggan, beneath huge conifers, passing Ardverikie House before arriving at the largest freshwater beach in Britain. Head west for three minutes on the A86 and turn north again on the Maria Mahria Way leading to the upper reaches of the River Spey catchment, some of which is taken through a tunnel, heading eventually for the Atlantic Ocean, via the hydro infrastructure, supporting the Lochaber smelter at Fort William. A quiet road leads to Garve Bridge and the start of an old, gravel, military road, passing Melgarve bothy before the hard work on Corrieyairack Pass starts. Hat’s off to anyone who has the skill, strength, and persistence to cycle up this gruesome grind, topping out at 774m! Take a rest, before being careful on the steep descent towards Fort Augustus and a variety of overnight resting spots. If your bike needs some TLC, try Girvans Hardware in the village. They are very helpful. A night at Morag’s Lodge is recommended. It’s haunted by all accounts but I’ve yet to meet up with the nebulous apparition!
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 2 miles – Major A class roads 1 mile – Gravel 41 miles
Day 9 Garmin route map. Leave Fort Augustus, heading west via Jenkins Park and soon enter and climb a wooded hillside. Emerging at the high point allows extensive views north towards the high country, surrounding Glen Affric. This is a route used by the military and drovers in Scottish history. Dive down into Glen Moriston and make a short detour east on the A887 for a significant breakfast at the Red Burn Cafe. Be wise about the quantity, as the climb out of the glen is also considerable and food could sit heavy in your stomach! The map shows a trail from the hamlet at Dundreggan but it’s better to use the forestry/hydro tracks nearer to Torgyle Bridge. There is an unresolved access issue at Dundreggan, unfortunately. Ascending out of Glen Moriston can be steep. It’s certainly relentless in the 440m climb, over approximately 9Km. Plenty of hiking for me and the loaded bike. Descending towards Tomich and Strathglass is a joy and many of the forestry trails have been resurfaced (2021). Tomich Hotel is always worth a visit and the back road along the floor of the glen is quiet and good looking. A night in the Cnoc Hotel topped of this short day.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 12 miles – Major A class roads 1 miles – Gravel 15 miles
Day 10 Garmin route map A ‘dodgy retour’ on the wrong side of the Erchless Burn was soon rectified! The 300m of ascent and traverse to the Orrin reservoir can be very wet, especially once the high point has been reached. Today it was ‘bone dry’ but very bumpy on the high, treeless country. Descending from the reservoir barrage continues on a paved hydro road, until Fairburn House I have never stayed there but it’s a grand building with accommodation on offer. Contin now has a Coffee Bothy that is worth a rest stop, for a snack break and across the road, a filling station for provisions and hot snacks. The final section of this day is all off-road on cycle trails or forestry tracks, crossing the A 835 at the picturesque Little Garve bridge and on to Inchbae Lodge Inn, now under new management and getting good reviews. Check out Trip Adviser. I’ve stayed here twice and one time camped nearby and ate in the bar. Great place.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 3 miles – Major A class roads 4 miles – Gravel 25 miles
Day 11 Garmin route map There is a choice to start this good day. Across the road, very close to the Lodge, or 2 miles, N.W. along the A835. They both converge at the same place, Loch Vaich, and the great majority of the day is off-road, in wild country. Historically Black Bridge to Croick was a busy passage through remote places. From Croick the road continued to Ullapool In fact most of this day follows a historic route passing through Alladale Wilderness Reserve A very depressing time in the history of this area is shown at Croick Church There is a bothy close to the end this section. It’s worth considering joining the MBA as they maintain free access for everyone. My ‘digs’ for the night were courtesy of the old staff quarters at the Oykel Bridge hotel The bar meals are good and the staff are always helpful, in my experience. If the accommodation is fully booked, there is good wild camping nearby. During my visit the rivers were very low and the fishing fraternity using the hotel were not too happy.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 3 miles – Major A class roads 2 miles – Gravel 26 mile
Day 12 Garmin route Nothing too challenging for this longer day, starting with 5.5 miles on the A837 to Rosehall. Plenty of quiet, paved roads, winding through very remote parts of the Northern Highlands. According to the Ordnance Survey, Glen Cassley maps are the least popular in the United Kingdom, which is a good enough reason to visit! Follow the glen until it turns into a short section of gravel in its upper reaches. Join the steep tarmac road and follow it to 417m where a rewarding descent and Loch Shin appear. Now join the A838 heading N.W. for about 5 miles. At West Merkland join an old Drove Road heading N.E. to Gobernuisgach Lodge and the nearby minor road, heading S.E.
At this point An Turas Mor heads north beneath the steep western ramparts of Ben Hope. It’s the most northerly ‘Munro’ in Scotland, if you fancy a change of activity. I turned S.E. following the Great North Trail towards the Altnaharra Hotel, Ghillies Bar, where bar meals are served and the Landlord connected to WiFi on his laptop, so that I could watch more Euro 2020, with England getting closer the final. I camped close by on a patch of grass in the village.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 27 miles – Major A class roads 11 miles – Gravel 12 mile
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Great North Trail – Cycling UK
Day 13 Garmin route Mostly paved, another good mileage (for me) day, following the B873 to Syre, then the B871 to the A897 where I turned north, passing Forsinard station as far as Forsinain Farm. Even public A & B class roads are quiet on this route, away from the comparative chaos of the NC 500, motorway! From the farm, head east on gravel trails to the isolated train station of Altnabreac. You will be alone at this most remote and least used railway halt, apart from the midges. I camped in damp weather. This is the Flow Country (watch the video) which stretches across Caithness and Sutherland in the far north of the UK mainland. It’s also LEJOG land, as cyclists converge on their busy target of John O’Groats. Garvault House is worth a visit for a coffee break if you are not in a hurry.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor B class roads 27 miles – Major A class roads 11 miles – Gravel 10 mile
Day 14 Garmin route Compared to the first day, the weather was not allowing a sunshine finish. Views over the mighty tidal race of the Pentland Firth were non-existent and the lighthouse at Dunnet Head was proving very shy! The Pentland Firth carries some of the strongest tidal currents on earth. Hopefully research and development towards tidal energy can harness this natural resource. Tides reliably move every day, unlike the fickle nature of wind turbines and the move away from coal and fossil fuels. The remote north coast of the UK has a legacy of power generation at Dounreay Even during the decommissioning stage, Dounreay must be the largest employer in the area. Farther west along the coast, near Whiten Head a Spaceport has passed planning There is renewed hope to stop the spiralling decline in socio-economic terms. Hopefully, modern technology can live side by side with nature, conservation and tourism.
My journey started and finished at lighthouse structures built by the famous Scottish engineer, Robert Stevenson Stevenson and his son, Alan, were responsible for building three coastal lights along the treacherous, rocky cliffs of the northern mainland of the UK. Another was constructed on the tiny island of Stroma, fully in the teeth of the main race. No doubt that the prosperous, unregulated activity of taking valuables from ships, foundering on these dangerous shores, diminished, due to the skills of the Stevenson engineers. All good things come to an end.
Approximate distances/terrain: Minor C class roads 16 – Minor B class roads 10 miles – Major A class roads 3 miles – Gravel 6 miles
Hi Alan, Did you send me a recent question about a cycle tour? It finished up in my spam box and I’m never keen to open anything that lands up there!!
Alan Kimber -
Thanks Alan. Yes, I remember our trail crossing last year. It could be an extension to ATM. There are a fair number available, from the Scottish border. The notion of joining the two lighthouses and north south locations, was the inspiration for me. It’s a ‘belter’!
alan wilson -
Superb write up and up photos Alan ! I was going to do An turas mor next year but think I will do this instead.
We met last year on the trail heading towards Tomintoul, I was riding fat bike. Cheers
Alan Kimber -
No problem David. We all need to research our trips, and if I can help a wee bit, that’s good. There’s always more to tell, but that eats into biking time!
david winton -
Thanks for sharing this and all the detail of historical aspects route and accommodation
Alan Kimber -
Thanks Gary, It’s a ‘belter’.
Gary -
Great write up Alan and it’s now in my to do list. 🤘
Hi Alan, Did you send me a recent question about a cycle tour? It finished up in my spam box and I’m never keen to open anything that lands up there!!
Thanks Alan. Yes, I remember our trail crossing last year. It could be an extension to ATM. There are a fair number available, from the Scottish border. The notion of joining the two lighthouses and north south locations, was the inspiration for me. It’s a ‘belter’!
Superb write up and up photos Alan ! I was going to do An turas mor next year but think I will do this instead.
We met last year on the trail heading towards Tomintoul, I was riding fat bike. Cheers
No problem David. We all need to research our trips, and if I can help a wee bit, that’s good. There’s always more to tell, but that eats into biking time!
Thanks for sharing this and all the detail of historical aspects route and accommodation
Thanks Gary, It’s a ‘belter’.
Great write up Alan and it’s now in my to do list. 🤘